Miel y Pelota

This officially marks the end of the fastest week yet.

Monday was a surprise trip in the morning with our teachers to see a sugar mill (trapiche). The place is located two minutes past the Guatemalan border.  Everything is natural and we could see it all before our eyes. Everything is done in the open air, (I hope the wacko health and safety mentality we have implemented in our North American food system never gets its dirty hands on this) and the process is slow. Once the juice is crushed out of the sugar cane it is actually sold as a drink, that is if it doesn’t continue through the rest of the process. Next it boils for six hours slowly getting thicker until it becomes a honey. At one point we were dipping sugar in sugar; i.e. dipping a sugar cane in sugar cane honey . . . “pretty sweet!” The end product is absolutely delicious, super sticky, and almost has a caramel taste.

Enjoying the ride there with Bruno

Crushing

Where the magic happens

Part of the hardening process using plantain trunks

Tuesday night Carin and I finally met for dinner. Yes, it only took us three weeks! We had a lovely time catching up on the past couple of years, and musing about the future. This is likely the year that she will leave for Spain after 15 years of living in Copan. And for those who don’t already know she is a fantastic artist and you can check some of her work out here: www.carinsteen.com.

The next couple days I spent helping my family, meeting people passing through the house, and of course doing homework and going to class. Thursday night the owner of my school (Kathy) invited me to a Rotary International club “reunion.” Basically what that entailed was an evening at the most beautiful outdoor “community center,” free food, and pretending I don’t speak English for the night around gringos.

Today, I went back to the school I volunteered in two years ago; El Sinai. If I have any regret on this trip it is that I didn’t return earlier. I recognized about half of the kids from before, and when the teacher asked if they remembered my name the response was a loud unified “RICARDOO!” That was humbling. Of course I ended up playing a sweaty game of pelota with the boys, and was lucky enough to have my taxi driver take some photos. Unfortunately, I was once again reminded that just because there is a school building doesn’t mean there are children learning. I won’t go into details here, but there is a serious lack of teaching at the school, and it made me want to tutor every child there.

After attempting 1 vs 8 I decided I needed some help.

The crew

This was also officially my last day of classes, although I will likely hang out there tomorrow, and Monday before my bus leaves at 2pm. =(

I am torn because I love home, and I want to come home, but somehow I still want my flight to be cancelled.

Yo estuve en Antigua

Saturday morning at the crack of dawn (6am) I was on a van with ten other people heading to Antigua Guatemala. I was travelling with Jason (Northern Ireland), and Kristin (Vancouver), who both work with UPH. I actually stayed awake for most of the ride because: A) The scenery is pretty hard to ignore, B) It is impossible to keep your neck in a steady position when you are rounding 90 degree corners every 500 meters, and C) When traffic is backed up behind construction all rules of the road seemingly disappear, and it becomes a free-for-all extravaganza. Because of some delays it took us nearly 8 hours to arrive in Antigua. . . a mere 266 kms away from Copan.

From the van window

The hostel we were staying in was very small and lovely. We had private rooms, and there was only two other people staying at the hostel. We even had breakfast cooked for us in the morning. Once we checked in we enjoyed one of the many delightful restaurants in the town, and then spent the rest of the day gazing at beautiful old architecture.

Around town

Antigua is the “capital city” of Central America, and is very special to Catholic Christians. I took a couple photos in one of the large churches, and the structures took my breath away. It is hard for me to come to a balance between: A) A human’s best attempt at a beautiful creation to honour God and B) Colonial conquest pillaging land, culture, and indigenous people. I think ultimately no matter how beautiful the structure, or how good the intentions, it is simply impossible to let that out weigh the pain and damage caused. In fact, I have never been convinced of the merit to spend big on appearance. I am pretty sure Jesus was a little more concerned with other things.

Excuse my thinking out loud. . . 

One of the Churches

Another at night

Day 2:

We started off the morning going on short hike to “The Cross” which overlooks the city, and then stumbled upon one of the coolest things I have seen in awhile. Whenever there is a large procession in Antigua (and many other places as well) they cover the roads with beautiful art to pave the way. Some large square "carpet" is made entirely out of plants, or others are intricate designs using coloured saw dust. If you remember a big "Art Attack" you are getting close. They are really beautiful.

At the cross

Plant version

Hard at work with saw dust

Since it was the weekend before Semana Santa, (basically a week long holiday filled with processions, and celebrations leading up to Easter; it is very big in Central America) we got to experience the surprise of one of the biggest processions of the year. The city was absolutely packed with people, and we were told this is when most of the locals visit before it is even more insane next week.

We ended up making some friends with some of the people designing some of the “carpets” and they invited us to join in! We made our best attempt at “gringo art” . . . which was nothing good compared to the rest.  

Attempting . . .

Then came the very large procession. A couple marching bands, hundreds of men dressed in purple robes, and then a bunch of “floats” of various sizes carried by people. The largest one was carried by 100 people, and they switched who was carrying it very frequently. Even still the people carrying the "float" looked like they were in a certain amount of pain. Pictures don’t seem to display the size very well, but believe me, it was huge! 

The haze is incense burning

And just like that it is all gone

We enjoyed a tasty taco dinner, and headed to bed early because the bus left at 4am Monday morning. 

On a side note, there was a guitar at the Hostel so I got to play again! =) 

Por Fin

In the blink of an eye another week has come and gone. Its seems like every week goes by faster and faster. I have now officially completed 67 hours of class, and graduated to the “next level.” However, I have a lot of reviewing to do. At this point I just need to speak Spanish as much as possible. I know a lot of rules but that does not translate into speech.

Tuesday night I saw the concluding bands for the two week festival with a couple new students from Holland, Bruno and (I know this is spelled wrong but it sounds like) Mario-lang. Mama Gilma and a few others are away camping this week so that leaves Irza, Eduardo and myself to keep the house together. It has actually been nice because the Hostel part of the house is empty; meaning it has been quiet around here. It is allowing for some quality bonding time with the siblings. 

One of the bands

Wednesday was a pretty relaxed day. Four hours of class a day is much better for my health, and I actually want to do my homework. Went for another walk with the boys and ended up bring back a tub of ice cream. I think I mentioned earlier in this blog about adjusting to different perspectives on the “same news.” For example a Russian news station is popular here, and many countries we often think highly of are disliked here. Inmar (uncle) gave me a brief history of Honduras’s electricity production, and another reason for me to despise the ridiculous institution called the World Bank. And you likely haven’t heard NATO described as the North Atlantic Terrorist Organization. . . how is that for a conversation starter? 

Thursday afternoon all of the students went to the Copan “Agua Caliente,” which means an hour drive through the mountains. We had two hours of natural hot tub bliss including: scalding hot pools, mud face massages, waterfall showers, and more. I almost enjoyed the ride as much because the views were stunning. My pictures don’t do it justice. Maiz looked like the hair on top of the mountain, cattle stood in the middle of a never ending lush pasture rolling up and down the hills. Just awesome. 

Hot Springs

happy cattle

I'd like to see a 12 row corn head + combine attempt this. . . 

I got dropped on the opposite side of town for the UPH fundraiser. A local food vender cooked all the meat with expertise on the BBQ like no one I have seen before. A lot of people showed up, in fact I didn’t even know that this many gringos were in Copan. We watched a movie projected onto the wall of the “castle” called “The Artist.” It is a fairly recent film that won awards, is in black and white, and is a silent movie. Actually, it was really good! So I guess that means I am two for two in the movie department.

The Castle

After the last class of the week it was off to UPH to finally play a guitar! This is the longest I have gone not playing a guitar since I started learning “way back in September” (sung to the tune of “if I die young” for the L’Abri folk). I fear my fingers are already getting weak, but it was liberating to finally play again. The rest of the night was packing, and getting ready for Antigua Guatemala this weekend! I return to Copan Monday. J

Finally!

If I look happy. . . it is because I am

Of Course I can drive a. . .

I will elaborate more on the title a bit later on in the blog.

Saturday in the afternoon I helped set up some of the stage decorations for the concluding ceremony that night. There has been a two week festival which officially ends Tuesday night. There has been a bit of everything involved: music, tons of food, games, and Mayan history. At night I watched the new Mayan Queen ceremony 2012, which was described as the end of an era, not the world. I also got to try my firework setting on my camera and found that it actually works very well.

Set-up

Humberto and Inmar

At night

Proud of this picture

I expected Sunday to be a quiet day around the house, but I ended up helping my family cater to a group of 35 that was visiting the ruins from Columbia and Venezuela . That involved loading up an old, manual, non-tailgated Toyoto truck with a bunch of food and glass dishes pilled in the back. Then 3 of us rode in the back and tried to balance everything over bumpy cobblestone roads and a few awkward hills. It was successful. 

Now back to the title. I don’t have a picture of the truck yet, but it is actually a very common truck around here. They are clearly well made because they take a beating and last forever. Most males drive a mini Toyota truck, and I haven’t gone a day without seeing someone waxing their truck, or completely rebuilding it. Anyways, I was suppose to meet my Spanish teacher in the afternoon, so without hesitation Mama tossed me the keys and told me to take the truck home because Irza (sister) needed anyway. I have driven stick a hand full of times, but that was on flat roads in Canada, with a license, and an idea of where I was. I decided against going alone and ended up asking Humberto (cousin) to come with me (which was a good thing because I really didn’t remember how to get home). Good news: I never stalled it once, and wasn’t stopped at the police check despite looking like an out of place gringo trying to drive in Honduras. Needless to say I was pretty happy. Oh, and the truck cabins are not built for people like me who are 70% legs.

Then I went for a nice walk with Edwin around the trials at the Ruins, and got some quality Spanish talking time in for the day. That is important on the weekend when I don’t have class. 

Small ruins

Monday evening I saw some authentic Spanish music live. It was good stuff. A lot of good voices in harmony. This week is back to 4 hours of class in the morning, which I am finding much nicer on my brain. I have the same teacher form last week - Mildia, who I like. =) I can't really say enough about how awesome the people are at this school. Everyone is so friendly, and if you need any kind of help related to Copan they have got your back. I believe our school trip this week it to "agua caliente" (hot springs). I am looking forward to it! 

Finally, Tuesday afternoon I spent some quality bonding time with my little brothers Eduardo, and Luis. We went to the bank, and then bought some fresh fruit, and finished off the walk at the new location of "Super Jogos." Simply the best smoothies you will ever have. They blend the fresh fruit in front of you. I had orange, banana, and granola. So good. 

Eduardo

Luis

Gringo Phase Out

I am slowly working through the process of “de-gringoizing” (that is definitely not a word).

The first thing going for me is that fact that I am Canadian, and therefore technically not a gringo (officially it is only people from the U.S.) However, many North Americans and Europeans get lumped into this category. 

The second thing I learned not to do is call people from the U.S. “Americans.” We are all “Americans” from Canada to Chili. Locals here despise the U.S.A’s claim on being “American.”

Next, I have started to darken the skin a couple shades, but I am still very white at the moment. 

A couple days ago I received an authentic Honduran cell phone. I have never held something so small and seemingly indestructible. I know that I obviously don’t need a cell phone while I am here for a month, but one of my Spanish teachers gave it to me for free and it cost me 50L ($2.50) to load it up. It will come in handy I am sure, and it looks much less ridiculous than the gringos carrying a variety of massive heavy Apple products.

Finally, of course, is learning Spanish. The more I know the better! I have now completed 46 hours of class, and have covered a lot of ground in the last week. Now I just need to practice, practice, practice!

It is smaller than you think

Friday night a few school mates and travelers headed to the “carnival,” which is here for the week. It was pretty weird walking into what felt like the Ilderton fair of the 1980’s, with a twist of Honduran culture. Rides cost $1, and games were usually around 50 cents. There was no charge to “get in.” I even went on a couple "spinning rides" which I never do well on. Shortly after I got off one of the rides sparks flew and it was out of commission. Safety chains and bars are optional, and the guys working would jump on a random cart while the ferris wheel was moving and go for a ride.

from the ferris wheel

Raymond from Norway

I was on this 20mins before it self-destructed

El Primero Café

I have some shocking news. . . . I have completed the first cup of coffee in my life. I have to admit that I soaked half of it in cookies, and the “cup” was a pretty small one, but still. . . . it counts for me. Warning: Don’t expect this to continue in Canada.

chickens chillin with the cattle

On Thursday afternoon Brandon (Calgary), Raymond (Norway), Edwin (teacher), and myself took the 30 minute journey by car to Guacamaya, a worker owned organic cooperative. I visited this place last time I was in Honduras, but it was worth it to go back. They have about 42 workers, and I was there just in time to see the last main shipment of coffee for the year. About 40% of the coffee gets exported to the U.S. and Holland.

Raw Product

Every single bean is inspected by hand, and they have pretty strict rules on what is acceptable and what gets rejected. They also burn the shells of the coffee beans for energy, thus reducing the need for wood in the production process. Who could have guessed it? Smart efficiency without “magical shiny new technology,” and dare I say it probably a better use of resources.

Behold

The coffee grows all along the mountains, and it would take 3.5 hours to walk to the edge.  We got to walk around one of the farms and look at some of their growing techniques. It’s is pretty cool to see how they combine different plants in the same space that mutually benefit each other. 

coffee growing with plantaines and much more

 Finally, to seal the deal on awesomeness; the coffee bags are hand made in-house.

 Needless to say, I give this place a big thumbs up!

stamp of approval

Piñata Fiesta

Three days and 23 hours of Spanish class later. . . all is well. I worked through a quick seven hours of class on Monday and took it easy at night in the breeze filled “loft” space en nuestra casa. 

Edwin

Katy (one of the owners)

Mildia

Tuesday was a full eight hours of class, but this week I have two new teachers. Mildia in the manana y Edwin in la tarde. It is good to have different voices to practise listening to. It is crazy how different every person speaks when you don’t know the language. In the evening I went to a movie for 20 Limpiras, (translation $1.05 Canadian.)  I saw “Machine Gun Preacher” which is a great movie. Look it up and watch it if you haven’t seen it. It is a re-energizing movie. . . a good reminder to myself to never become passive or complacent. There is much to do in this world.

Yesterday, after a long day of class, I got to experience my first Spanish birthday. Complete with a Spiderman Pinata (how did they know he is my favourite?!). The extended family was all there as well as a couple bonus gringo travelers who are staying at the house. It was a BBQ fiesta, followed by hopeless swings at a moving piñata blindfolded. Somehow I ended up playing an hour of pelota with a couple of the kids (Eduardo y Luis). That involved some serious sweat.

Pelota

Spiderman

I have two more days of 8 hour classes. My goal is to complete about 100 hours. I think I am heading to an organic cooperative coffee farm tomorrow.

Hasta pronto todo!